Do you know the first steps in sewage fitting

The most significant thing that you have to care about while taking on any DIY plumbing and drainage work are the Local Authority regulations which they actively monitor.

If you are considering altering your existing drainage, or installing a new drainage system you will almost certainly need to present some detailed plans of the work that you intend to undertake and it will need to be inspected as the work progresses making sure that it complies with the local building regulations. In many situations when you are simply replacing damaged parts, there is no need for the local authority to be advised.

Surface water is basically water from rain and is handled differently from dark waste water in a modern sewage development. In older properties this can discharged into a foul water sewage system whereas in other properties this can discharged into a soakaway, watercourse or a surface water sewer. If gully traps are fixed at the junction of the rainwater pipe and the waste water drain, foul odour can be controlled. However, modern systems are designed to keep the foul water and the surface water apart. To comply with modern planning regulations you should always make sure that the foul water and surface water sewage system do not connect. If you are unsure about the sewage system around your house get advice from the Building Control Department before you start any work.

Of course, the first thing you should do is plan the layout of the waste pipes. The route should be as short and straight as possible, this will help to reduce future maintenance problems and costs. The pipes should run straight with a gentle incline. Use the surveyor’s site level to calculate the drain fall over the complete system. If you do not have one of these available, establish a datum point and use a hose filled with water to establish levels and calculate the fall from the datum this way.

Don’t compromise the stability of the house when putting in the drainage ditch. Keep the drain excavation at a uniformly safe distance from the home face to avoid damage to the substructure.

Try to leave as short a time as possible between digging the trench and installing the drainage system as an empty trench represents a risk with the potential for a sidewall collapse. Get the pipes laid quickly and, as soon as they have been tested, fill the ditch back in.

Be wary of the depth and soil conditions and if necessary add extra support to the ditch. It is advisable to take proper precautions. If you are not sure prop up the trench anyway to prevent it from falling. Make sure that you leave enough room in the trench for you to work but try to keep it as small as possible. Ensure that the trench bottom is flat and free of stones, tree roots and soft spots. If the material at the base of the trench is not appropriate then you might have to bring in new material.

The pipe present in the trench should not be supported using bricks or other such materials. This should not be used as employing this type of material as a temporary or permanent pipe support will damage the pipe. The base should be tightly packed in the appropriate manner with holes carved out to fit in the protruding pipe connections. For the complete pipe length you have to provide a continuous and uniform support.

Make sure that your plans are made in such a way that drain rods are within reach of every part of the network of pipes. Therefore, a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points. In case of any change in the direction of the pipework it should be provided with an inspection chamber for allowing drains rod access.

DIY plumbing and sewage is certainly within the bounds of most DIY enthusiasts.

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